Archive for the ‘Strategy’ Category
I’ve now played Eclipse 25 times … I played a few teaching games in the last month.
So, a few words about the various Aliens, rated on the Fudge Scale for both Fun and Viability (chance of winning).
Human ( Fair / Fair ) — As the default race, I’m calibrating the ratings to humans. Humans can easily defeat aliens, in particular starbases and 3 movement are not to be sneezed at. The 2:1 trade ratio does allow some aggression, but mainly benefits you when things go bad … which isn’t a great way to win.
Planta (Mediocre / Mediocre) — The Planta’s fungal expansion is a one trick pony. You can do well, especially in a passive environment. But people quickly learn to pound the Planta. Their ship design (lack of initiative, mainly) is crippling. I must admit, though, that I haven’t played them in a 6+ player game recently (since the expansion showed up). In this case, the large number of tiles may help, but the warp tiles probably keep them from being as isolated as they like.
Draco (Fair / Good) — Draco’s early expansion (& Co-existance with ancients) lets them take prime spots, at the cost of early discovery tiles and VPs earned from pounding out on aliens. (This may be mitigated in the expansion, as they can’t coexist with Alien Cruisers). The Draco can safely explore Sector I and claim it on turn one, then another on turn two, for a nice steady growth. This can force neighbors to explore Sector I/II, lest they get cut off. (Avoiding Sector III isn’t a great strategy, but it does mean if you get poor Sector III tiles early you can still colonize a great system).
Orion (Good / Good) — Let’s admit it, combat is fun. The Orions can snowball. One upgrade (such as Improved Hull) and they can stomp Aliens out of the gate, and their ship design is impressive. To be sure, the Alien Dreadnought from the expansion keeps them from threatening the Galactic Center as early, but they are a force to be reckoned with.
Hydran (Good / Fair) — My latest game had the Hydran’s get the sector III tile with a double pink world (one improved). Drawing that is a good strategy. The expansion (with the rare technologies) helps Hydran’s out immensely, as it’s practically impossible to shut them out of finishing a track. And, with some decent early world draws, finishing two or three becomes possible. Without the expansion, I think they are Poor, but I’m not sure. Having lots of cool technologies to research makes (IMO) the Hydran’s fun, because they get to decide which route to follow.
Mechanema (? / ?) — Honestly I’ve only played them once and I don’t have strong feelings about them yet.
Epsilon Eridani (Mediocre – Great / Mediocre) — EE’s rating depends on your point of view. You’ll (effectively) get 1-2 less actions per turn (because of your two disc shortage). That’s a tough disadvantage … warchest or not. But it’s a hell of a challenge. Winning with EE against experienced players requires pressing every advantage and a bit of luck, which IMO makes them a fun race.
The Expansion Races
Magellen (Superb / Great) — My most controversial claim is that the Magellan race(s) are the best across a wide range of setups. They can’t go toe to toe with the combat races, but they’ve got many advantages. Most subtly, their starting technology provides a useful turn 1 upgrade that helps them tactically bankrupt and will almost never need to be undone. Their extra mileage out of discovery tiles (and a free tile) work wonders. On the fun side, they aren’t locked into any one strategy and (more so than most races) roll with what they get. Flexibility means they are more likely to pleasantly surprise you that most races.
The Exiles (Good / Poor) — I like playing the exiles, but I’ll be damned if I can figure out how to win with them. Orbitals are, for the most part, a trap. And they are a trap the Exiles are forced into. I suspect the best way to use them is just go for an interceptor heavy fleet and take advantage of your other technology, the cloaking device.
The Rho-Indri (Fair* / Great) — As I mentioned, combat is fun. The R-I have great ships, and a massive fleet movement. Their Fair fun rating is actually wildly variable. More so than the Orions, their early snowball determines if you run rampant and get lots to do, or just crawl along. That’s true of every race, to be sure (an early disaster is a challenge) but when your combat victory not only determines your early VPs and fleet strength but Economy, that may be too many eggs in one basket. When they lose, the syndicate is often dead last, and not just by a bit. But they win a large percentage of games.
The Lyrans (Poor / Fair) — I don’t enjoy their turtling, but I’ve seen it work. The Lyrans get a wide variety of special powers from their shrines, from wormhole generators to an extra disc. But they are (IMO) a reactive race, painting a pleasant target and challenge others to come get them. I suppose they could be viewed as a challenge, like Epsilon Eridani. But I don’t enjoy them.
Coup’s depth surprises me. Like Poker, there’s bluffing in Coup; but there’s also a surprising amount of positional play. You can get by with poor ‘people-reading’ skills if you bluff (and challenge) at the right time.
Even great reading won’t win you every game, just more than your fair share. Coup reminds me of a gravitational problem … possible to solve when there are two bodies in space, but no closed-form solution with three or more. In the early game, with lots of players, you can’t calculate where things will wind up. Your goal in the early game is to make sure you don’t get sucked into a deadly position and crash. But if you skirt close to disaster, that gives you momentum.
I’ve tortured this metaphor long enough, so let’s start with the endgame. First, a note. Many game groups have different culture of what’s acceptable. For this, I’m assuming a fairly neutral culture … you win or lose this game. No grudges between games, although players are free to make close decisions based on how they view the skill of the other players (or who won recently as a tiebreaker). If you play Coup as a popularity contest, that’s fine but then nothing I write matters.
Endgames in Coup usually devolve into a lock. Without character powers, one player will win the race to 7 money and coup his opponent out of the game. (Assuming each player has one influence left). Characters complicate things, but some characters dominate another. The important thing to realize is that if you claim a character that locks your opponent, he may as well call and hope you are bluffing.
For example, with a Contessa and no money if your opponent claims Duke and gets three coins, you are boned. He’ll get to 7 money before you can even pretend to have an assassin … even if you assassinated he’d be forced to call your bluff. You may as well call the Duke claim. You’ve probably lost.
Let’s look at the endgame matchups –
- Mirror matchups are straight races, of course.
- Captain is a great ender. Captain beats Contessa (unless she can coup) and Assassin (unless he can assassinate). Captain often beats Duke, but it depends on the exact money situation. Only the Ambassador fares well; it’s a straight money race with Captain often losing a critical tempo.
- Duke will usually win the money race against a (non-Captain), as he can tax and block foreign aid. The assassin has some hope, since he only needs three.
- Assassin fares poorly against Contessa as he wastes a turn (and 3 bucks) trying to assassinate and she wins the money race.
- Other situations are straight money races.
- Ambassador fares poorly, but of course the ambassador can sacrifice a tempo and hope to switch into a lock. This is reasonable … if you know your opponent’s character. Still, the tempo is tough to overcome.
As you can see, there are good and bad matchups for every character. Contessa and Ambassador do poorly, but each have one decent (non-mirror) matchup. Captain and Duke do well. Assassin, more than most, depends on the exact money situation.
As stated before, if you get a lock you’ll probably be challenged. But, if your opponent thinks they are winning the endgame, they typically won’t call a bluff. Why risk it? Let’s take a contrived example.
You have an Assassin versus your opponents (strongly suspected) Captain and both players have two dollars. All Dukes are (obviously) dead. Despite your good looking position, things are grim. If you claim foreign aid (or income), he’s going to captain you — he’s losing the money race on foreign aid and taking your money locks the game. If you claim to be immune, he’s lost the money race … he may as well call. Your hands are tied because his situation dictates that he call any bluff and/or steal your money to swing the race. The fact that you are well ahead in the money race (needing only one coin) isn’t helping you.
But suppose you captain him first. He’s going to claim immunity (if he is the captain). Now he wins if you challenge him. If you don’t, he wins the money race (in his mind). So this bluff is likely to get through. Now he takes foreign aid (4), you take foreign aid (4), he takes foreign aid (6) and then you assassinate him to win. You had to bluff to win, but your bluff had to be before things looked hopeless.
The tricky part is if he isn’t the Captain he’ll think he’s in a lock and challenge out of desperation. So this play depends on a good read.
A real ending depends on the actual matchup of characters and money lineup. A two-to-one character advantage is almost always decisive (unless the one character player is about to coup …). For the most part by this point both players should have a fair amount of information.
Stable vs Dynamic / Hill vs Bowl
Backing up to three (plus) characters, your goal is to transition to a winning endgame, a “stable” lock. But the situation is dynamic. You just can’t defend against 2 (or more) people, it’s “dynamic.” But you can put someone in a position where killing (etc) you leads to a stable situation that works against them. In those situations, people tend not to kill you (assuming they look ahead).
Consider four players (without roles), each with two influence and 7 coins. If A coups D, B could finish D, but then C could hit A or B and have a relatively strong position. Any player could be out if they “pass” a turn by taking an income. If A coups B, who then retaliates … C could coup D and vice versa … but C could also now stall and wait for D’s shot, couping later.
Who is winning? It’s not clear that player order matters. At this point (on a ‘loaded’ table) a player with an Assassin has an advantage since they can kill and kill again (barring a Contessa) while a coup requires a significant reload. The point is that the when the coups start the situation is a ball on a hill. You nudge it, it rolls and it could wind up anywhere. It won’t be a stable situation when it’s done.
Three players in the same situation is a bowl. There are really just two resolutions … one player out, two unharmed OR three players with one influence each. If you are the first player, you have a decided advantage … you can’t pick which situation occurs, but you can be sure to be playing when the smoke clears. (If you coup B, then B coups you, C will be decisively ahead if he finishes you off…. so if you are out, someone has made a mistake).
Sometimes when the ball is on a hill you nudge it and hope, but in a bowl you should be able to see the outcomes and push only when it’s favorable. (Roles will complicate this, but you get the idea).
Timing, Influence and “Sub-optimal” play
Let’s continue with the middle game.
You can’t defend against a coup. If you are perceived as winning, you get hit. But if someone else is “winning” they’ll get couped most of the time. How to change perception? Well, have less money/influence. If you have a few coins and someone else has 7, the player with seven is dangerous. In fact, I’ve seen a player get their seventh coin and not survive to get another turn (via a coup + assassination).
[This goes back to hills and bowls. Often you can spot when the game is about to enter one of those, and by arranging your money you may be able to put things where you get to time the first push … either by making a decisive first push, or delaying an indecisive nudge.]
Consider — you are ‘winning’ It’s Anne’s turn, but Barry goes next and can coup. No matter what Anne does, you can reasonably challenge Anne’s claim. If you are correct, you’ve hurt another player … but if you are wrong Barry’s coup is likely redirected and you’ve gained some information (to be sure, the table gains it with you). In that case you are still down to one influence, but someone else lost one as well. Likely you are no worse off for challenging and being wrong.
Alternately, you could Assassinate someone the turn before Anne. If you get called, you weaken your position. If you get a Contessa claim you can call or not, but spending your money may be enough to move the target to someone else’s back. If you succeed, you’ve stripped out an enemy influence and also planted a false belief. Just as in poker, the best bluffs are followed by a raise and pretend to the have the same cards consistently.
You can also slow your rise to the top of the hill by taking a single coin instead of foreign aid (or extortion or taxes). Or taking a turn to Captain someone you expect will claim immunity. More boldly, consider assassinating someone, hoping to get a Contessa call (which you will graciously accede to). That drains some money out.
If it gives people the wrong read on your cards, so much the better.
Bluffing and The Opening, and “sub-optimal” play
Like most games, the opening and the endgame are the easiest to analyze.
What do you do? Should you bluff wily-nily? As we’ve seen, if your bluff puts you into a lock then expect to get challenged. An opening bluff won’t lock anyone, but it may put someone at a disadvantage, at which point they’ll be tempted to call.
For example, if Doug claims Duke and then gets Extorted and he has no defence, he’s in a bad spot. If he accedes to the Captain, everyone is going to steal his money. He’s going to have to make a stand sooner or later. One way (the better) is to claim immunity, but the other is to challenge.
So I don’t bluff extravagantly … I do bluff, but under half the time. There’s a sound reason for this — bluffing risks two valuable commodities … one influence and an action. Any challenger risks one influence. So, if I only bluff less than half the time, my expected value of getting challenged is positive, and any challenger is losing (long-term) if they routinely challenge my claims.
Note how this differs from poker … any bluff I make adds to the pot and increases the rewards for a caller, and any caller gains the reward. But here anyone who calls has to share most of the reward (my loss of influence and an action) with the table.
Always telling the truth can win by getting called, but you become easy to read. Even the best opening hand can be beaten if people suspect what you hold. As the game goes towards the endgame, bluffs get riskier because there is more information and the game is moving more towards a zero sum game … claiming a role when none are visible is a different bluff then when one or two are revealed. An opponent may know you are bluffing. Not to mention the fact that an opponent may feel cornered and call out of desperation.
So, a common move is to bluff on your first play, carry the bluff out for as long as you dare (“Turn 1 — Duke, Turn 2 — Duke, Turn 3 — Switch to your true role.”) Of course, if you do that too often, you’ll get called early. Sometimes you have to mix it up and start true, switch to a bluff, and switch back.
Let’s look at each role, its bluffing calculation and value in the opening.
- The Ambassador improves my position, both by letting me swap out characters and by providing information. If I see 2 of a kind I can challenge efficiently (or perfectly, if I’ve seen all three of a character). But it doesn’t hurt any specific player, and so people don’t have too much incentive to call it. Also, it doesn’t move me towards Couping someone. In our first games, a first turn ambassador almost never got challenged, although it gets called every now and then because we realize that the information is often just as valuable as a coin or two. A middle game ambassador is a precursor toward grabbing a locking character, and will get called. (I find that most people are reluctant to sit on an ambassador, preferring to swap it out ASAP. I think this is a mistake).
- The Duke’s taxation is a powerful move, but not a directed move. It hurts all your opponents. It’s not infrequent to see the first 3+ players all claim Duke and to be looking down at one. Sure, someone’s bluffing, but who?
- In contrast, a Captain’s extortion targets and the victim will have a strong incentive to challenge. But they can just claim immunity. If they do, the ‘Captain’ has incentive to challenge, but the fact that your victim has two potential claims means their claim is likely true. (I’ve used this fact to my advantage by claiming immunity from the role I don’t have as my immunity. Sometimes).
- The Assassin is exclusively a directed role. However, like Captain it’s mitigated by having a counteraction. And often an assassin will get through if a victim has two influence because they are unwilling to stake their game on a successful challenge. This is particularly true if they’d be winning, because their reward for challenge will be a quick coup. Until you assassinate, then you are essentially passive.
- The Contessa feels directed role, because it counteracts. However, just being immune to assassination doesn’t hurt the assassin any more than it hurts the rest of the players. Facts aside, most players consider it an insult to have their Assassin deflected. The Contessa is the ultimate passive role. You win as contessa by having someone challenge you, so the real point is to make the Contessa seem unbelievable.
Tips and Tricks
A brief pause for a random assortment of ideas that I’ve seen used, to various effects.
- I’ve already mentioned taking income when you could do more, but there are variants.
- Giving into extortion from player A and then claiming immunity later (without having switched roles). This enrages Player B, so I’d do it rarely as a bluff. I mainly do it when I want to drain off a bit of money, and perhaps adjust the dynamic of the table. I’ve never seen anyone do this with a Contessa (eat an assassination, then claim it later) but well timed it could be devastating.
- A similar ruse is allowing a taxation (etc) and then piping up the 2nd time it happens. Again, I usually do this when I think the timing of losing an influence will be OK.
- Sometimes call (with two influence left) a character you want your opponent to not have. Even if they have it, they’ll have to shuffle it again. Particularly if you were about to get Couped anyway.
- The game changes immensely when all Dukes are visible (“DukeDeath”). Now everyone can take foreign aid. It simplifies calculations immensely.
- If you are dealt a pair on the opening, don’t automatically call the first time someone else claims that. Even if you know they are bluffing. That usually reveals your pair.
- If, in the endgame, you can’t imagine how you could possibly win, try considering what role(s) you’d give your opponents and assume that they have them. If that doesn’t work, assume the roles and then imagine what misplay they could make with that. If that doesn’t work, lie wildly and pray.
Finally, a point that deserves discussion. When someone assassinates your final character, you have two choices — bluff the Contessa or challenge the assassin. Challenging the assassin is a final play. You survive or die right then. Bluffing the Contessa puts the onus back on your challenger … he may allow you to live even if he suspects/believes its a bluff.
However, if your opponent has an assassin (a good endgame role, to be sure) then they may have a problem if you call them on it. Now they have the luck of the draw for their final role (assuming by this point everyone has one). The problem is — you are dead. The solution — simply state that you will challenge your assassin’s role before they decide and stick to it … sometimes. [As always, the lesson is, never pay attention to what people say. Actions speak louder than words.]
An opening hand isn’t a template. You can play each one a few ways. I personally treat it as three cards (the two I’m dealt and one I mentally assign myself) and go from there. At some point I’ll bluff the third card (or mentally play as if I had the third card instead of what I have). As I mentioned before, you can’t bluff all the time, and sometimes I bluff both cards (for a while). Often when you lose that way you lose spectacularly, but you can’t win every pot/game and it plants seeds of doubt in your opponents. So, this is an incredibly wishy-washy assessment.
(If you do ‘mentally deal yourself a third role’ consider dealing it before you look at your cards. If you duplicate, then you don’t bluff).
Thoughts on specific openings:
- Duke/Captain — I’ve heard several people call this the best opening hand. It is … when you don’t get assassinated. Playing it straight (taking duke and then using captain to defend and pick on the weak) leads to the assassin’s knife. However, I may slowplay this by taking income, acting as if I had Something/Contessa and aiming the assassins elsewhere while avoiding a coup. And if this is the best opening hand, you should mentally pretend you’ve been dealt it with any excuse.
- Duke/Assassin — While not bad, I find this combination putters out. I’m tempted to ambassador right away and see what I find. Or I’ll just Duke and claim immunity until I decide who to assassinate.
- Duke/Ambassador — You can play this relatively straight, gain up money then dig for the combo you want. As I mentioned before, I think it’s a mistake to dig early.
- Duke/Contessa — If you want to slowplay, fine. If not, treat this as Duke/Captain … when the (inevitable, IMO) assassination hits, you’ll be well off.
- Ambassador/Anything — If nothing else, you can just start digging for roles. Feel free to keep the Ambassador for a few turns (perhaps with a Contessa until you decide what you want). You’ll be building up information while not making yourself a target (in some people’s eyes). This is much better in a six player game, when you may be able to discern exactly what cards are out, and possibly even know that one role is off the table.
- Ambassador/Captain — Consider extorting early, as you’ve got 1/3rd of the defence. Particularly extort those who’ve claimed Duke. Again, this is likely to wind up as a delaying play to gather information.
- Ambassador/Assassin — This can also be played straight … income and assassinate. An early assassin often hopes to get called to reshuffle for a character who builds up income, but the ambassador means a) you don’t lose money and b) you can always reshuffle manually. Of course, an early Duke bluff (or two) builds your warchest, but then after you assassinate you’ll have a bullseye on your chest.
- Ambassador/Contessa — Incredibly slow/passive cards … solid defense. The straight play (apart from a Duke bluff) is to just build up coin, coin, coin and hope the fireworks start before you look threatening. That works well.
- Captain/Assassin — The urge to come out firing is high. This will turn the game into a dynamic hill, which will be fun and not help your chances of winning.
- Captain/Contessa — As always, this is a decent Duke/Captain bluff (probably better than Duke/Contessa, if your group tends to let Duke calls through).
- Assassin/Contessa — If you build up an early warchest, this is a great set. If you survive the first round of coups with both cards, this is a great set. If people figure out you have this, you’ll lose all your money and die. So you can’t play this straight forward. You want to get your first assassin/contessa claim called, so that you can switch to a rebuilding money role (or have it be late enough to not matter).
Getting a pair of identical roles is painful, to be sure. You lack flexibility. There’s always the urge to quickly claim ambassador. If you think you’ll get away with it, it’s a reasonable play. Otherwise, the default advice of “Mentally play as if you had a 3rd card” still applies.
- Double Assassin — Good news … you probably won’t be assassinated. Bad news, you lose to most combinations. Apart from switching, you’ll need to claim immunity to Captain or you’ll get nowhere. Consider just building up and claiming Ambassador whenever a captain strikes. Then, when you assassinate and (hopefully) get called, you can ambassador “again” if you need to. People will assuming you are hunting for your assassin role back. I’d tend to aim my assassination at someone with just one role, hoping to get called (a person with two roles will just claim contessa or let it go).
- Double Captain — Not bad, since at least you’ve scooped up one of the defensive cards.
- Double Contessa — The seven-duece offsuit of Coup. Either ambassador or pretend you have a good/great hand and come out firing. No half measures.
- Double Duke — I’ve had real trouble with this. This isn’t quite an ‘auto ambassador’ but it’s the closest.
- Double Ambassador — Quite playable, since you get to refresh. On this one, I’d be tempted to call any other early ambassador (or perhaps the second) since even if people know your hand, you’ll be switching it soon.
Coup shouldn’t be a fast game, and I want to make clear that I don’t think this would be fun if people took too long. But often, during opponent’s turns I’m trying to decide if I’d like the endgame we can transition to, or if I’m on a hill or in a bowl. That’s difficult, but it’s surprisingly easy to play “Who has a good position” and to make sure it isn’t you at the beginning of the dynastic toppling. A good position only matters in the end.
Notes on recent published articles
While I was writing this “A blog post on Coup Strategy” appeared. To say I disagree with the article is an understatement. Even as a discussion of 2 player opening strategy (and who plays Coup 2 player?) I think that the player doesn’t bluff nearly enough. But it’s worth checking out, and reminded me that when I “mentally deal myself a card” I almost invariably deal myself a good card, and don’t deal them with even frequency.
I played a four player game (and the TaoLing wanted to play a two player game) so I got in two games as Epsilon.
EE isn’t necessarily bad so much as fragile. You must take the influence action and drop mediocre hexes as soon as you get better ones. Other races should do that (it’s rarely worth it to trade an action for a cube) but with EE it’s an absolute must. You want a few prime hexes. If that requires exploring and discarding early, so be it.
As EE, I’m more likely to start heading to Sector I/II and try to dodge around Aliens.
EE’s main advantage is the huge reserve of points, but don’t discount starting with Plasma Cannons. It seems like most games someone is hurting for a weapon upgrade, and you start with it. This also means that a single upgrade to your interceptors (Replace ION Cannon with Plasma Cannon, add a computer or the Gauss shield) turns your starting fighter and one more fighter into a force that has an edge over ancients. (However, that edge isn’t a huge one. Not something you should be willing to risk early on, unless desperate). The Fusion Drive and Gauss Shield aren’t bad, if you get the Fusion power source, you can have interceptors that move 2 hexes, have an initiative edge, and do double damage. This makes them a reasonable match for most races cruisers … (for a brief window).
So, in terms of technology, if Plasma Cannons are missing from the early available technologies, that’s a decent plus. Seeing Fusion Drives is a minor plus. Lots of advanced robotics is another plus. (No improved hull is also a big plus).
The way to win with EE is the way to win with any race — steamroll. Plan on spending ~9 of your stockpile on T1, 9 more on T2, and then 5 on T3. If you’ve managed to build up your income and raked in a few discovery tiles, you’ll be able to operate evenly. The two missing discs hurt, but no more than Planta’s long term initiative problem. If you hit a double alien, it may be worthwhile to try and build a dreadnought and roll into it, but even ignoring the horrific 3:1 conversion, it would take several actions to upgrade it. I suppose it’s possible, but I suspect the “just burn up your money reserves” option is more stable.
As always, my random thoughts about Eclipse. In non-condensed form. When thinking about Eclipse, a chess aphorism kept popping into my head.
The threat is mightier than the execution. In Eclipse, you often want to be in a position to attack everyone. But you certainly don’t want to attack everyone. Even if you romp all over the board for the first five turns, you will likely be beaten back. But being flexible means you just build up a solid position and then find a point of weakness (either a player’s position, or a few aliens, a great technology) and then pounce. This sort of thinking is rampant in Eclipse, see (for example), the strategy guide on Virtual Fleets.
Another chess thought I’ve been coming back to is Jeremy Silman’s discussion of Imbalances. There are lots of aspects to a position, and you will be ahead on some of them and behind on others. You can try to push your advantages and shore up weaknesses, but you only have so many actions. If you are losing, you need to mix things up … take on another negative to get a new positive. Eclipse has lots of factors — topology, technology, resources, fleet placement, alliances, pinned pieces, the counter mix limit, upkeep costs. Except in a small game where you can steamroll someone, you’ll have positive and negatives. Be aware of them.
Explore — The early game
The first turn (or two) is exploring. An exception can be made for grabbing a really juicy advance right off the bat (Advanced Robotics) a delay can be made. The reason for early exploration is two-fold … you need more resources but you also want to control when and where you meet the neighbors.
Typically you explore Sector III, because those tiles are limited. There are only 6 Stage I spaces, and only twelve Stage II (minus the number of players). Those stages are limited by space, but Stage III is limited by tiles. So, unsurprisingly, everyone should rush out to stage III and claim as many as possible, even if you can’t claim them all. There are a few reasons:
- Deny them to your opponents
- Discovery Tiles
- Resources for new systems
- Linking up
Linking up to form diplomatic relations is understood, but another reason to link up is to be able to fight later. Having a position where you only connect to your opponents is nice and defensible. The problem for you is that it’s nice and defensible for everyone else. This is worth delving into.
Tempo, Trenches and Plasma Missiles
After your first game of Eclipse (or even just perusing the BGG forums) you’ll hear one thing over and over. Plasma Missiles. Complaining about Plasma Missiles strikes me like Complaining about pawn promotion. Now that’s overpowered. Once the pawn promotes, you’ve already lost. The promotion just indicates you were in a losing position earlier. My first few games of Eclipse felt like this, but not because of missiles. The problem was tempo. Everyone grows, expands, researches, upgrades, takes out some Aliens and (one player) conquers the GCDS (which I just call the Throneworld). Then a bit of jockeying for position, then the 9th turn attack.
That’s ok (especially when learning the game) but anticlimactic. Eclipse is as much a Race as Race for the Galaxy. Whoever gets the Throneworld has a decent edge. If everyone only connects there (which isn’t terribly far fetched in a smaller game) then things can go static quickly. If two opponents attack me in the same space, they have to fight first, they pin each other, and it just gets ugly. They each have incentive to let the other person whale on me, then attack the next turn.
So they hesitate. If this happens, Eclipse will rapidly bore you.
And this situation can be easily diagnosed pretty early. Given a choice, I’ll make sure that one of my Sector III hexes points towards the Stage II hex I don’t normally connect into. This threatens to explore into Ring II and rob my opponent of a crucial hex. If they explore there they may very well connect up (so as to form diplomatic relations) and tempowise I’m ok.
Remember, the Sector III hexes aren’t great (long term). You want to explore them, but not necessarily keep them. If there are two available cube slots, that’s fine. An alien isn’t bad (some VP and a discovery tile). I love the discovery tiles with no worlds. You claim it, take the discovery, and then tactically bankrupt ASAP. (If you find two of them, you can influence to remove the discs the same turn or bankrupt, depending on details).
But in the long term, having influence discs on too many Ring III hexes will slow you down. The point is to explore them. Not hoard them. So when exploring, I make it a point to also use the exploration to try and prevent choke points. I may try to prevent too many connections with my neighbor, but I’ll try and make one.
Later (sometimes as early as T1, and sometimes not until T3) I’ll try to arrange connections on Sectors II and III. The point is to control fluidity.
In Eclipse, Defense trumps offense. Lets say you have two medium fleets. Say, 4 ships. We each spend equal actions to build and upgrade them. But if you attack me, you have to spend 2 actions moving. If I know I’m defending (and where) I can build starbases instead of interceptors, which are much better (5 slots instead of 4, and no need for a drive, better innate initiative). If we’re fighting 8 vs 8, I get even more actions. If we mutual and rebuild, you’ll have to spend those movement actions again.
On top of that, defender wins initiative ties, which are fairly common.
Which means that if you need to attack someone, you want a fluid position. But even that’s not enough. Assume we’ve got a long open border. If I attack you, you can just build up wherever I go (assuming available minerals). So I need to have a decent advantage (say, technological, or fleet wise) to attack. Or, the borders have to be fluid enough so that you are under multiple threats from multiple players.
Which brings us to trench warfare. If the galaxy stabilizes so that people only connect on the first ring, then defense is going to dominate. You can just plop down 4 starbase on your chokepoint and (if everyone is technically equal) that’s that. You can’t gang up on a leader. The game will end.
Similarly, if you get cut off, you are going to have to go through one player, and they can defend. Sure, you can defend too, but if you are cut off odds are you have a smaller chunk of resources. So, unless I’m sure I’m going to be ahead, I don’t want to risk getting cut off in the early game.
That’s what the explore phase is all about. Well, that and snapping up discoveries.
Discovery tiles are two points (if nothing else), but on turn 1 they can also provide you a significant resource boost, which can snowball. If you turned in all 1st turn discovery tiles, you’d be wrong sometimes, but probably not too wrong. As the game goes on, you’ll need a specific reason to keep the tiles. Going through the types:
- Money/Science/Material — Obviously keep it if you are suffering a shortage, and if you have a surplus then take the points. (I’m not sure if it’s possible to have a surplus on science).
- Ancient Technology — Taking a random technology saves you an action (if you were going to get it anyway) and gets you a point if you were going to run that track. And it gets you a few points of science (or improves your discount). So already it can be worth 1 obvious point. Add in denying a technology, and it’s often right to use.
- Ancient Cruiser — This is 5 material and half an action (or so). The only downside is if this cruiser is on the wrong end of the galaxy (don’t ignore those fleet limits!)
- Ship parts — Brutal, although they only work for one ship type. (Remember that you can’t move them around once placed). The drive and super shields (-2) are problematic because you often don’t have energy for them in the early game. If I can’t place them down immediately I’m tempted to just take the points. The uber-power source isn’t that useful (unless you have technologies that absorb power). It’s usually 2VP. Shard Hulls, Ion Missles and usually useful. The turrets depend on the point of the game.
I’ve seen ship designs with multiple ancient parts (usually HULL + WEAPON + DRIVE) and they do intimidate, but you can only have 4 cruisers and 2 dreadnoughts. I suspect the 6 points would be better. Probably 4VP and one upgrade is best. Despite my original “Ship parts are the best early discovery” thought, I’m not so sure.
One final point of exploring. It’s painful, but sometimes it’s right to lose the action and not place a hex. In particular, a low resource hex that will close you in (or a double Alien hex you aren’t in a position to face quickly).
Expand & Exploit — The midgame
Once things settle down, mop up aliens around you. These give you points, access to good hexes and more discoveries. Also, building up your fleet annoys your neighbors. It’s entirely possible to take an Alien on T2 (build a cruiser, research improved hull, upgrade your figher and cruiser, and move). But the odds aren’t great. If you get a lucky tile by all means go for it, but typically I’m aiming for taking my Ring I aliens (should I get them) on T3. If that goes swimmingly, the Throneworld often falls on turn 4. An early setback means that someone else will take the throneworld, though.
By this point you should have an idea who is winning. It’s not just VPs; look for imbalances:
- Production (Mineral, Sciences, Money)
- VPs from Discoveries
- Upkeep (if we have the exact same production, but I use one less disc than you, I’ve got an upkeep advantage)
If you are winning, then by all means grab the throneworld and make it a chokepoint. If you aren’t, don’t let that happen (the chokepoint part, anyway).
The game of Maneuvering
Eclipse can bog down into trench warfare, but in the midgame (which is roughly Turns 2-7 or 3-8) its surprisingly fluid. There are races to set and claim rings II and I, fighting aliens and the throneworld, and even attacks. Because of the superiority of defense, directly attacking a neighbor can be a problem. Once you achieve a manuevering advantage, things change. How can you do that?
- Your opponent runs out of mineral. Now he can’t build where you attack.
- Your opponent passes. He can build, but at only one ship/action it’s expensive. This also applies to an unpassed opponent who has a high upkeep.
- If you have decent drives, you may be able to move to two or more systems. Even if your opponent can build a matching fleet in each system, splitting battles results in devastating loss for your opponent (particularly if you have Neutron Bombs, which is a cheap technology). This isn’t something you can do wily-nily in a large, multiplayer game, but if someone is threatening to run away with it, this works as a nice check. After all once the war goes to the trenches, you can’t complain about an entrenched defender.
- You can pin your opponent’s fleet. This may sacrifice a few ships, but if you wipe out a few systems it’s a big deal. (See http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/750685/pre-emptive-strike-how-to-win-the-war-with-weake)
In the middlegame you often have a tempo battle to race into the throneworld. Once a player parks a fleet there, they get the initiative advantage. But you may find that your best bet is to outwait your opponent. Make neutral moves (technologies, upgrades) and wait until the last action or two to attack. If an opponent is threatened on multiple fronts, they may leave an opening, or be unable to defend.
In this way, the threat of an attack can be more powerful than an early (first action in a turn) assault. If you find yourself defending a sitzkrieg and can’t hold out (you have to pass soon), consider building a picket force on edge worlds or attacking with a small (expendable) force directly. Better to lose a few ships than lose a few ships and a system.
Action Density — Why DNs are worth 3 interceptors.
One aspect of Eclipse that took a few games to get around is that you want good action density. Money (and actions) can be saved up between turns, but it’s not linear. If I can afford $10 a turn, then taking one less action this turn and one more next turn usually costs me a dollar or so. Saving two actions now for two later costs me several dollars. So this means you should look for ways to smooth the number of actions between turns. If you don’t have a great action now, but upgrading would be OK, consider doing it now rather than later. If you don’t have a great technology, but have spare minerals, build the fleet now, then upgrade them next turn. This isn’t hard an fast. Saving an action and spending one extra is often fine. Saving 3-4 won’t net you 3-4 next turn. Maybe 2. So plan ahead.
The cost of actions is part of the defender’s advantage — you want to make actions count. Maneuvering is difficult when each move action only lets you shove two ships (3 if Terran) with your croupier stick. (Man, I need a croupier stick). That’s a real advantage for Dreadnoughts. If you have 18 mineral, you can build and invade with 6 interceptors … at a cost of 6 actions (5 if you have nanobots or are Terran, 4 if you are both). Building and invading with two Dreadnoughts costs only 2 actions (and only 16 mineral). Even if the 6 interceptors are better, that may be worth it.
So a DN, particularly a fully up-to-date one, is a potent threat. You only get two of them, so you have to decide where to point them. This also means that if your opponent has one sitting around (particularly in a neutral space, such as after defeating an alien, but not claiming it), it may be worth an interceptor to pin. It’s almost certainly worth slapping down interceptors (or starbases) on routes if it can move a great distance.
With the countermix limit, and the threat of pinning, and the cost of moving, sometimes it’s worth it to kamikaze a DN (etc). On Turn 7 I shove it into a not-great odds battle. If I win, great. If I lose (assuming I’m mineral rich), I now have a “Virtual” DN to use as defense wherever I need it, or to build and attack in any corner of the galaxy. This doesn’t come up often, but be aware that a virtual fleet is a powerful threat and (more importantly) if someone has 4 uber cruisers, but all built up and several hexes away … then they aren’t your problem.
Why we can’t be friends — Diplomacy and the Traitor
I’ll make trade alliances early on with anyone. Everyone. “How do you deal with them later on?” Simple — if they are weak, I attack them. Traitor Schmaitor. 2VPs can be overcome through one hex and a decent draw of reputation tiles, and then if I rampage through them some more I’m in the bonus. If they are strong, I defend against them and hope that my defense plus the traitor penalty is enough of a deterrent. If we’re roughly even I maintain flexibilty (having some actions and minerals ready to defend) and go after softer targets.
In my first few games everyone made an alliance or two and then nobody broke it, because they didn’t want to be the traitor. But look at the logic:
- The early alliance gets you critical resources and a potential VP. If you dont take it, you are falling (a bit) behind.
- The late alliance costs you potential VP (because the ambassador takes up a slot. The ideal situation would be to have your opponent break it and then grab a bunch of his VP. But he shouldn’t do that.
- Everyone is the same boat as you. They all want to break their alliance.
So me? I want to break my alliance first. If nobody else break their alliance (say), I’ll get a good stab out of it. If I get a 3 VP out of it (not unreasonable, and after a decent battle 2VPs for the tile and 2VPs for a hex isn’t hard) and nothing else then I’m up over everyone. I have 4 VP – 2VP, and then have 1 VP. I’m especially up over my trading partner.
You still need to have a good move to be a traitor. Those don’t come along every day. But be receptive to them when they show up. And don’t ignore your defenses. Nations don’t have friends, they have partners of convenience.
(Also amusing, being the traitor with A while having an alliance with B. Now B has to worry about you attacking them at no cost, while if B attacks you, you aren’t the traitor anymore).
Having heard all this. Will you be my trading partner? It’s still a good deal. 3-4 turns (usually) of extra money, minerals or science? Your choice. Just don’t expect it to keep the borders secure, or to serve as a reason to skimp on upgrading.
In the end game, ships aren’t worth points. Hexes are worth points. Battles are worth points. (Of course, battles you lose probably aren’t worth much). A new technology is often worth points. But not ships. Or cash on hand. Unsurprisingly, that means the last turn usually has everyone fighting a monstrous battle. (The typical exception? The throneworld owner if it’s a chokepoint … he doesn’t want to attack out for fear of inviting reprisals, but nobody dares attack his entrenched position).
There’s really not much to say about this. You want to be in the position of exterminator, not the bug. If your opponent has a few out position ships, pin them and fight there instead of fighitng on your turf. Much less embarrasing to lose. Prior to the endgame, taking (or just bombing) an enemy system shifts the front away from you. That’s where you want it. If you are being attacked, take a few extra actions (even those that threaten bankruptcy) to keep the pressure on. If you manage to win all your battles but have to remove a system or two, that’s no worse than having them destroyed, and you denied some VPs to your opponents. And if you lose a system, well, then you didn’t go bankrupt, did you?
The endgame is also a good time to take an early move action to pin ships that might invade. (Early on is great if you can win or threaten to win the battle, but sacrficing ships on T9 is practically free).
Blinding Yourself with Science — The Technologies
I suspect new players try to grab a few too many technologies, and spread out a bit much. Getting one track complete (with maybe the odd needed technology to shore up a problem) costs 8 actions (7 if you start with a technology) and doesn’t require much science investment if you get them roughly in order (~40 science over 8 turns). Still, you want them sooner rather than later. Also, getting a roughly even spread of technologies and spending out every turn isn’t necessarily the way to go. Consider saving up for a turn or two (or converting) to grab one big game changer, especially if you are behind.
Don’t overdo it on ship upgrades. You can’t ignore them completely, but those effectively cost 2-3 actions each. Worse yet is to buy the ‘intermediate’ technology, upgrade, then buy the advanced technology and upgrade again. Sometimes you have to, but specialize. Often I prefer to have one (or maybe two) classes of ships that I focus on, only upgrading the rest when I have spare action. This saves a few actions.
Gauss Shields (GS)/ Improved Hull (IH) — Either (or both) of these let you quickly upgrade your cruiser to be a match for an ancient, with two cruisers being a likely win. Most races can buy these on T1 without needing to trade. Not that you should, necessarily. But it’s an option. IH gets a slight nod because it also works against neighbors without computers (wheras the GS doesn’t matter). The more advanced shields are nice, and sometimes needed to counter heavy computer based designs, but they are situational.
Weapons — You are going to need a better weapon. There’s usually a race for Plasma Cannons (orange dice). Plasma Missiles (PM) are well known. Anti-Matter Cannons (AMC) aren’t much better than Plasma Cannons (since they cost so much more, and require a power upgrade). Both of those aren’t incremental upgrades … they are game changers. PMs give you initiative. AMCs obsoletes many IH-based designs, which are a common early build. AMCs secondary advantage — they free up space for more defense or computers.
Power — Unless you go the PM route, you will either need to upgrade your power or be limited to a basic drive + PC or one advance. Typically these ships have IH/GS to take up space. The nice thing about an early power upgrade is that you can spend two spare actions improving your sources and then be ready to take advantage of many different upgrades. Nice and flexible, but you sacrifice immeadiate threats.
Drives — The advanced drives help initiative, and give multi-hex movement. The movement lets you do two things. It practically forces your opponents to put at least a token defense on their border systems. (Do you really want to defend your home system? Knowing that you now don’t get the initiative bonus). It also means you don’t have to worry so much about having non-adjacent chokepoints (against different opponents). This is highly situational. In a fluid map, these are great. In a “Ring 1 choked” map, these are inferior to computers (with the caveat that this initiative bonus doesn’t take up a slot like a computer, just energy). Putting even fusion drives (2 hexes) on Dreadnoughts can force all of your opponents to react.
Computers — The non-basic computers give you initiative and a bonus to hit. The problem? Without a power source that’s bonus to hit is only an Ion Cannon. There’s an interesting coordination problem. If you and your neighbor’s neighbor both have good computers, he’ll want to research shields. But if only one of you have computers, shields are wasted space against the other. Ah, the upgrading conundrum. PMs + Positron Computers will decimate fleets, but what do you expect from two of the most expensive technologies in the game? Don’t whine about the promoted pawn….
Neutron Bombs — The bombs turn a single interceptor into a system threatening genocide. All for no upgrade cost. A great buy.
Starbases — Great ships, you’ll probably want this, maybe not right away. Rules Note — You can build multiples per hex. But once you’ve build them, they are stuck. So I try not to build more than 2, and keep the rest unbuilt for emergencies.
Advanced Mining/Economy/Research — These are great to buy on a turn where you aren’t expanding, to shore up your resources. I’ll usually get the one that’s on my main track (unless it doesn’t really help). Don’t grab this if it delays your game changing technology, but usually a decent buy.
The “Disc Gainers” Advanced Robots (AR) & Quantum Grid (QG) — AR is a fantastic early buy that will pay off almost immediately, and may be worth trading the last few points of science. The extra action lets you expand, or stockpile a bit of extra money each turn (to convert or make a deep run of actions). QG provides a huge “Sitzkrieg” advantage and lets you delay. It can be a gamechanger, or just an economic boost, depending on your targets defensive setup. However, Quantum Grid’s cost (16/8) makes it tough to get early. (I’ve seen T6, though, which gives it a decent payout).
Nanobots — Saves a few actions, if you are producing heavy minerals. However, in the early game you are often better served by buying two cruisers (or CR + INT) instead of 3x interceptors. Discounts are always nice.
Orbitals — In my opinion, you have to be truly hurting to justify purchasing these. If you got a bunch of one-world systems, I suggest building two cruisers (instead of orbitals) and taking a better system, then influencing/tactically bankrupting your old system.
Monolith — Unlike resources, VPs can’t often be created out of thin air. Monolith technology is a potent threat, but remember that your two monoliths have to contend against your opponents two dreadnoughts, which cost less.
Artifact Key — In the late game, you can often use this as a ‘free’ research. You spend ~10 Science to get 10 science (if you have two keys … and you start with one). Or you can convert 10 Science to 10 Mineral. And you get a VP or two. If you have 3 or more keys, this should be an automatic purchase.
Wormhole Generator (WG) — This should be a game changer, but I’ve found that it often isn’t. On T8 or T9 it does let you threaten your opponent, but typically they can just use the defender’s advantage to build a few random ships once you invade. And in Sector III, even the ‘half-connection’ requirement may be problematic. But, in any case, around T5 (if not earlier) you should look to see how you and your neighbors can use this, and whether they are on the bottom (“Nano”) track, since only people who hit that heavily are likley to buy it. The WG is a potent threat against someone who has loaded up a chokepoint, which is yet another argument in favor of virtual fleets.
Loving the Alien — The Races
The Terran Factions — The Terrans start of with balanced home systems, decent reserves. Their racial benefits are trading at 2:1 (instead of 3:1 or worse) and a 3rd movement action. Humans shine in midgame (and later) offense, and can suffer poor tile draws pretty well. They take a bit of finesse to play well, but they aren’t bad at all. If they are the enemy, you can play your normal game, but watch out if they get drives. You’ll want to build some interceptors because they can make audacious attacks.
Descendants of Draco — The Draconians can spread fast, through ancient ships, but they can never get access to their discoveries. Still, those are great sectors. The explore two, keep one power is excellent, and means your sector III worlds should be prime. But expect all of the aliens you don’t protect to be destroyed, and you’ll be down a few discoveries. Draco, in particular, should expand into good systems, grab easy discoveries, build cruisers in Sector I, then on turn 3 or four move into the throneworld, research a key technology and upgrade. They convert their extra resources (and discovery or two). If they are the enemy, then you’ll need a bit extra oomph, since you’ll have to fight aliens after you crush them. Sometimes. But usually when that happens the aliens aren’t that much of a deal.
Eridani Empire — The empire’s huge stash of money 3 starting technologies may not be enough to overcome the two-action disc deficit. Various strategies are being bandied about but I don’t have a good grasp on them. I’m going to try and play them soon, but I suspect they are just weak. Only pick them if you are going first, and even then, consider humans. If they are the enemy, hope they spread out too thin? Also, they are a prime target for sitzkriegs, since they’ll have to pass an action or two earlier, so you can build up near them and invade late in the turn.
Orion Hegemony — In my opinion, the best race. The Orion advantage is tempo, tempo, tempo. They start with a cruiser that’s roughly equivalent to an Alien and have the equivalent of 4 upgrade actions on their ships (not to mention a bit of extra power). You can consider exploring Sector II or I early on, and if you find a (single) alien building a second cruiser and attacking. (It’s probably still best to start with Sector III, just to keep those out of other hands). The Orions are legitimate threats against the Throneworld a turn earlier, which is a bonus discovery and a ton of resources (for as long as they keep it). In addition, the get a 5th VP slot. Even if you do get beat down later on, you’ll have a chunk of VP. If they are the enemy, do not let them get a chokepoint on you, and connect to them where their starting cruiser isn’t.
Planta — The Planta start out great. Those hyperthyroidal weeds will claim an extra large chunk of the galaxy and (with any luck) a few extra discoveries. Their ship designs are functionally better than most (at the beginning), effectively starting with a slighlty improved power source and computers! Don’t take marginal systems, or you’ll be spread too thin. But the Planta have several issues that make the endgame problematic for them. Their ship designs don’t improve well, and have terrible initiative. Planta often get Plasma Missiles to compensate the initiative. They’ll often be a target of choice (since they get an extra VP per hex) and opportunity (weak ships). So consider investing a bit more in ship upgrades. And don’t forget Planta’s annoying ability to take a turn to explore Sector I and then your neighbor’s Sector I. That can really ruin their day. (And a rules note — everyone has Neutron Bombs against the Planta! Don’t expect them to remember for you!) If they are the enemy, wait for their initial burst of energy to flag and then hit them hard.
Hydran Progress — Despite BGG’s love for the Progress, I consider them merely OK. The “Two research per action” can be great, but it can be a trap. They only have 3 VP slots and an ambassador, so if you betray them (or Vice versa) they might wind up losing a point (if they draw a low tile) instead of breaking even. As a progress player, I’d be sorely tempted to expand normally, save up my science, then buy a game changing technology ASAP. That’s probably how they should be played, and I’ll admit they could do quite well with that. That’s not how I’ve seen them played to date. Further research required.
Mechanima — The third build is OK. The third upgrade is pretty good, actually. The cheaper building costs aren’t bad, but are offset by your mineral poor starting position. Get some minerals, stat!
Random Tactics and Advice
- Take full advantage of Tactical Bankruptcy (if you would go negative on money, you can pick up disks). Unless you get great tiles, this should be a turn 1 plan (except for Eridani …. hm, another problem they have).
- If you are playing with people like me, it’s a race to hit the Throneworld. Consider moving in as the first action of that turn. (Note — not if you are connected on Sector I). Remember you can move/build then upgrade.
- A preemptive pass for first player is fine if you saving up for one key technology. Passing and praying? OK if you need a bit of luck. If people keep doing that to you, then build up a fleet next to the person passing, or start a sitzkrieg. I don’t typically mind being last, but in that case save up for a gamechanger. Still, it can hurt.
Eclipse, on the first play, strikes a lot of people as empty. You explore for a few turns, build up your defenses, then it explodes in an orgy on turn 9. But, viewed as a race for the throneworld (and technologies), Eclipse has a surprisingly short opening and endgame, and is roughly 7 turns of mid-game. That’s a great ratio. Yes, when people lose they tend to lose hard, and you can be shoved out of the game by some bad tile draws or a horrific few rolls of dice. But for a 2-3 hour game it’s not horrible. There are decisions to be made, risks to be balanced, and trade offs to be assessed. As our group has played more the games have seen more early attacking, the traitor tile shifting around, maneuvers, sacrificial attacks, move-upgrade attacks, and forking plays. The galaxy’s topology changes the game. It’s not a perfect game, but it has decisions all the way through.
After another game, another re-evaluation of my thoughts…
- Did I say Troop Transport + Repair station is a good combo? I meant great combo.
- The five player game is interesting, but long. All cards available in the draft reduces replay value for that setup, though.
- I think we found a minor gap in the rules. No big deal, though.
- Get VP worlds early. You can rack up a respectable amount of VP worlds.
- I like the Consul of the Empire variant with 5. But even then (and especially without it) be set up to pounce on a Core World as your first action of T9 or T10. And save your medbot (etc) for T9 (unless you take a big VP world in T8)! The ability to invade twice in consecutive actions is huge.
- That’s another reason Repair Station is a big card, and worthy of drafting even by itself. In our game I took a Core World (Zeus) on turn 9 and repaired a vehicle (to save it) and I medbotted a starfighter. Then I deployed the rest of my hand. As I had a thin deck, on T10 I drew the repair station and medbot again. The medbot didn’t help (since deploying costs valuable time), but I took a Coreworld on my first action and repaired a speedbot (3FS and 3GS), which left me with enough strength to take another world on my next action. (Again, playing with the Consul variant– multiple people could invade a world as long as they got it on the same action round).
or, A few too many words about Core Worlds
- Ac = Action
- En = Energy
- FS = Fleet Strength
- GS = Ground Strength
- A ‘pair’ is 1 action and an energy
- While you can aim for total specialization (only drafting fleet or ground units), you shouldn’t get too unbalanced. Your deck will always have some ability towards both (until you trim out your starting cards), but it’s easy to hose yourself. Being able to get 5-8 points in your weaker side means being able to threaten most core worlds.
- You can survive low energy with an efficient deck. In fact, high early energy means you’ve reshuffled extra starting cards back into the reshuffle, so that tends to work out.
- Each invasion costs a number of one actions for each invading units, plus one. You save actions by unit efficiency. 3 Starfighters provide 3 fleet strength for 3 actions. A Claw Fighter provides the same strength for the same energy, with only one action. (A few units let you deploy secondary units as part of the same action). The better units save actions, not energy. Small units can be split across turns (if you have a spare action but are short on energy) and can also be used if you are just shy of a breakpoint OR to qualify for a tactic card.
So, the fundamental tension is energy versus actions. Extra energy is useless if you haven’t drafted and need all your actions to place grunts. Likewise, action efficient cards are pointless if you run out of energy. If you conquer worlds quickly, you’ll have plenty of energy but a) you won’t have drafted early cards to become more action efficient and b) your reshuffle will have lots of snubs and grunts. In this case drafting an expensive card will improve your efficiency … on the next reshuffle. Similarly, if you’ve placed your snubs and grunts and conquered few (any?) worlds on T1-2, your deck will be tiny, but you wont have the energy to draft good cards. So you’ll need to conquer something.
If you are unbalanced between actions and energy, the natural strategy will rebalance you.
On the first two turns, your energy is a slight limitation. You have four actions; each action (generally) costs one energy, but you have 3 energy. You can always discard two cards for an extra energy, so unless you’ve drafted a card that costs 2 energy (or your hero does) you can always play 4 cards a turn, or play 3 and invade. So early game energy and actions are roughly equal.
You can easily survive not conquering a world on T1 and still play 4 cards on T2. (If you don’t get either energy surge on T1, its likely easy). Can you survive without a world going into T3? If you get a surge (+2 En) and discard 2 cards for another En, you have 3 cards, 6 energy, 5 actions. That’s 3 deployments, an invasion, and drafting a 2 cost card. Or skip one deployment (like a grunt/snub) and draft a 3 cost card. This is probably only safe if you are sure you have an energy surge coming or hold a surge.
I wouldn’t go out of my way skipping worlds on the first two turns, but if the world doesn’t provide VP I’d consider it. This isn’t a normal deckbuilder, you need to grab VPs early on. A score of 35+ is good, and less can win, so 1-2 early points could make the difference. Early worlds don’t clog your deck much (although tossing back the non-colonized cards do count a bit).
Turns 3-8 you have 5 actions, but energy will fluctuate (you production could outpace costs, or vice-versa). The early midgame will see you energy limited, Later on you may be action or energy limited. That’s the tension.
Each player starts with 4 grunts, 4 snubs, 2 energy surges, 2 tactics cards (+2 strength if you have two infantry/starfighters), the medbot, your hero and the two cards you draft. The medbot deserves some mention, because it effectively lets you prepay an action and energy. If the medbot keeps around a 2+ energy card, it’s a great deal, but even keeping around a grunt/snub may be worthwhile, since it’s let you shift an action/energy pair from early (when they are balanced) to when they could be unbalanced. In essence, the medbot is a battery that could easily provide an energy Return on Investment if you use it for a non-base unit.
The homeworlds each have one different card:
Alpha Prime / Prince Aaron (2En) — Aaron adds +2 fleet strength for free, assuming you spend him with a starfighter, star cruiser, or capital ship. That means that he and a snub can conquer a 4 fleet world. That’s enough fleet strength to take any Stage II world, and add a 2nd snub and your coordinated assault (+2 Fleet strength if you have two starfighters) provides 7 fleet strength, which is enough for most worlds. You easily boost your fleet a bit and just take over the heavy fleet worlds, but drafting infantry lets you threaten Ra. If you get a few big ships, Anu will fall easily enough.
Beta Prime / Lord Banner (2En)– Banner is 1 ground strength, and lets you spend an energy for another +2. He’s Aaron’s equivalent although early on the fact that you have to spend energy is tough. Banner is better later on (especially if you’ve trimmed out your grunts for robots or heroes, something Aaron can’t do). The advantage for Banner is that Aaron would have to spend two deploys to get 4 fleet strength, whereas you spend 1 deploy and an energy for 3 ground. Banner’s faction will want to have a bit more energy.
Gamma Prime / Chancellor Augustus (1En)– Augustus provides up to 3 energy to pay for infantry deployments. Note that playing him costs an energy and action (as always); my gut says it isn’t worth cycling him hard. Augustus does smooth out your energy, which is nice. At worst, he’s an action to energy converter (if you play and discard him on the same turn). Pay an energy or two early, and save the last point for the late game.
Delta Prime / Barron Viktor (1En)– Viktor converts starfighters into ground strength. Note that (according to the FAQ), you can’t use coordinated assault (or tight formation) on converted starfighters. So Viktor is little but flexibility, and a prime candidate for just sitting in your tableau until after your last reshuffle or to snag a great world. If Viktor does anything (except drafting fleet strength without starfighters) he’ll be well placed to take over Wotan (0FS/14GS), but unless you draft a lot of infantry it won’t be worthwhile.
Theta Prime / Simon the Fox (1En) — Fox lets you reuse a tactic card (not in the same invasion). Invade with coordinated assault, then invade again with Simon and coordinated assault again. Not bad, since tactic cards are efficient (2 strength for one energy and no actions, but have some requirements). Simon is least effective if you thin your deck out rigorously and force reshuffles. You still want to colonize each time you conquer a world, but if draft too many non-starfighters & non-infantry your tactics will become deadweight.
The initial draft –
Beast Rider — 2 GS for 2 energy still saves an action over 2 grunts. -1 cost if you have no other infantry is a nice bonus. Don’t draft this with another infantry, and colonize grunts. Good.
Twin Laser Fighter — 2FS for 2energy, but a harder discount condition to meet than the Beast Rider. OK. Good combo with the Star Cruiser.
Heavy Machine Unit — At its most efficient, its 4En for 4GS, with the only benefit that you can split the cost up between 2 turns. Leans you towards an energy hog. If it helps, it helps at the end, so I think this is bad. I suspect you’d toss this for energy the first time through the deck (or play it if you have a spare energy). I could reverse my thoughts after more games, because in the late game a 4 for 4 is pretty good.
Experimental Prototype — You must declare your target before you flip; and must conquer if possible (without spending tactics). Great if you energy hog and draft big cards (and no tactics). But early on this is likely a 2En for 1.7 FS. OK to bad
Jump Troopers — 2EN for 1+1. Balanced is nice, and saves an action over a snub/grunt pair. Good.
Recon Fighter — 1En for 1FS, or 1En + 1Action (on a prior turn) to draw 5 cards and keep one. An intriguing option that will be hard to use well, but lets you cycle quickly. This can be good, as you skip a bunch of chaff. Will be great in the endgame, particularly for a hoggy deck (which will have more chaff and a few good cards). Good, especially for Simon (as moving tactics from the deck to the discard is great).
Refitted Freighter — Like the beast, a 4En for 4FS. But better early on (because 2En/2FS instead of 3En/2GS). The downside is that this is a Star Cruiser, so can’t be medbotted.
Salvaged Battle Hulk — 4En for 3FS is OK, but this also turns any card into +1 energy (when it’s in your hand). Which is better than discarding 2 for one (which each player can do once/turn). I’m going to call this Very Good.
Sword Master — 1GS for 2En and spend 1 or 2 actions for +2GS each? Originally I wasn’t sold, but look at it this way. Deploying a grunt for +1GS is an action AND an energy. Now, he costs 2 energy, so you effectively spend 2 pair for 3GS. Very good.
Troop Transport — 1En for 1GS and retain 1 infantry unit after invading (with the transport). Retaining the unit saves a pair (to redeploy) and makes your deck slightly better on reshuffle. So this is like a medbot with some offensive capability. The ideal use is to use Troop+2 Infantry, colonize one and save the other to colonize later. OK, since it requires a bit of comboing.
Workbot — Turns an action (to deploy the workbot) into 3 En. Great. I think it’s the best card in the draft. It’s flexible. Even if you only use the Workbot for a 2 cost card, it’s a nice deal. And note that later robots have synnergy (each robot reduces the cost of speedbots and makes the warbot better).
Repair Station — Either keep a vehicle or robot after an invasion (for 1 En) or keep the medbot or workbot (for 1En). If you just have a medbot, mediocre. If you got the workbot as well, your opponents deserve their loss. Realistically, getting this means you’ll want to draft a vehicle or robot quickly. The only vehicle in the draft is the troop transport, but getting those two is a good combo.
Finally, some random thoughts on the early game:
- I haven’t tried spamming the 1En/0VP Sector I worlds, because by spending one extra energy/action pair I get a VP. But if you think of it as 9 pairs for 3 production and 3 colonizations, as compared to 8 pairs for 2 VP at the cost of one production and one colonization, it’s not so clear. (Particularly if you get an energy rebate). I think the VPs are better, but who knows?
- If you hold a card on T1 and T2, you won’t shuffle on T3 but on T4 instead. Is that a good idea? Not unless you conquered lots of small worlds on T1/T2 and draft on T3. Pay attention to how holding a card (or not) causes a reshuffle.
- The # of cards in a reshuffle is interesting. Too many, and you may not see that Sector IV card you drafted. Too few is rarer, but I’ve seen it happen (where someone didn’t colonize because then they’d only be able to draw 5 cards next turn).
Update — After another game I’ve got a bit more:
- Synergize. If you see a combo, take it. I mentioned Workbot+Repair Bot before, but having Superior Engineering (keep a capital ship after invading) and 3 capital ships including the world ship (which is hideously expensive but worth 5 VPs, 9 if deployed) was decisive.
- You can go without a world until T3 or T4. In fact, I’m worried that ignoring Deck 1 may be powerful. Plan — Discard 2 cards, play 4. Energy Surge, play 4, Energy surge, Play 3, draft! At this point you’ll reshuffle and draw an energy surge or two because your deck is in your warzone. You do need to pound some worlds now, but if you got a workbot/augustus you can use your best unit cheaply and keep the grunts on the table indefinitely (taking them off to colonize or for the odd point). It has some pitfals hiccups, but can work. You have to optimize for a low energy setup and run a trim deck.
Now that 7 Wonders snagged the IGA, I’m playing Fairy Tale. (That’s the kind of cutting-trailing-edge gamer I am). Casting my eyes on the geek, I wipe away a tear seeing that there are zero strategy articles. Let us rectify that situation.
The path to victory comes by accumulating VP. No shock there. Higher numbers are better, but you can win by denying everyone else a good score. But saying “Score more than everyone else” doesn’t help. What should you aim for? My personal belief is that you’ll need a 40-50 point score to win most games. That works out to 3.5-4 points per card played. That’s the base metric. You could win with 3 points per card played, but that’s rare. Sometimes you lose with high forties.
If you could force everyone to play crappy cards, then you could win with a much lower score. But you can’t. Anyway, for now my thoughts will be directed towards the 5 player game, so assume that.
How The Draft affects Play
In 7 Wonders, you draft 18 cards. Up to 3 go into your Wonder. Some get pitched for money, although if you cash in more than 1-2 cards you typically lose. For those cards and those cards only you draft defensively, It doesn’t matter what the card is. You play cards instantly on drafting; so you decide right then. Sometimes you play a slightly sub-optimal card to really stick it to your neighbor, but in a large game you focus on optimizing your score (unless your downstream neighbor is the leader).
There are also temporal issues in 7 Wonders. The big VP cards happen in Era III, so you don’t want to be playing defensively then …. you need to score points. In Fairy Tale, cards don’t cost resources & you draft your big point cards as they come. You play exactly 60% of your drafts. Once you draft 3 great cards in a round, you pick defensively. If you have two great scorers, you can risk drafting a mediocre card to deny your neighbor a windfall. Since your last last card is always luck of the draw you should expect it to be poor, so realistically plan for one defensive draft a round, three offensive (scoring) draws, and one random card.
Given that players will mainly (but not exclusively) focus on offensive drafting means that you should look for opportunities to rejigger a card value so that it’s good for you, but not for anyone else. If it’s fantastic, you risk a defensive draft. But pushing cards into the “Better, but not overwhelming” category may see it slip by.
Early on, flexibility matters. If you draft a card that combines well with cards available later, you may get lucky. Draft a Story-9 point card which requires the Hero (3 point card that hunts) of that suit to score and you burn one pick unless you get the matching hero later the same hand (or have the trickster). Odds are — a zero point play. Drafting the Hero is a different story — he’s worth 3 points and has an effect. It’s a flexible draft (in fact, it’s good). Now if you get the 9-conditional, that’s huge; if not, you aren’t down much. Drafting the hero has good implied odds early on. The story is (hopefully) still in the deck. Nobody else will want the payoff (barring the trickster) so you’ll get it, or force a defensive draft.
I rate picks on flexibility; I rate Tableaus on robustness. With that hero and story-9, you’ve got 12 points. But if you have to close a card of that suit and don’t have a spare, you are back to 3. Have the hero, story and a friend in that suit, you have 15 points. Your average fell from 6 per card to 5, but now an attacking close only costs you a bit. If you have many cards in a (non-shadow) suit, you tend to be robust, unless every card is absolutely necessary. The spare provides robustness. It’s insurance, a premium against disaster. You can’t always take insurance, and sometimes it isn’t necessary. Which brings us to our first card…
I’m starting with the shadow cards, as they provide direct player interactions.
The key cards are the closers (the Demon, Werewolf and Vampire, which force all players to close a Dragon, Holy Empire or Fairywood card, respectively). They tie in with robustness/fragility. If you don’t have cards in a suit you are safe, and can pick & play a closer with impunity. Its only 2 points, but will cost every other player (with a card in that suit) at least a point. If they aren’t robust, you cost them dearly. Assuming that each other player has a card in that suit, this makes closers 3+ point plays. A solid, not great round 1 draft. Late in the game they often force a defensive draft by a fragile tableau (assuming it gets to him). If you see both closers played/gone, then that suit is safe, and you don’t need to take out insurance anymore. Also note that if you hit a fragile tableau with a closer, it’s not a horrible loss if they play the opener in that suit (they get back their scorer, but the opener itself is only a point) Note that the order is Hunt-Open-Close, so a closer played as the 12th card can’t be responded to.
The Dark Angel costs you a point, but lets you open two cards. This is obviously a conditional draft … pick her if you have two face down cards (or maybe if you have one and expect another to be attacked this round …). If you combine this with two locations (the 6 point cards that force you to close a card) you have 11 points in 3 cards.
The Magic Circle forces you to close a face up card, but it’s worth five points. That makes it and any other card worth 2.5 points, which isn’t great. If you could close a Dark Angel that would be a 6 point swing, to be sure. More realistically, you have probably drafted a risky card (a story you don’t expect to fulfill, or one of the asterisk cards) and you are making the most of a bad situation.
The Trickster … ah the Trickster. Negative one point, but able to make a name for himself. If you play the Trickster, you can draft any (one) Story-9 in safety. You can combine him with a large friend stack, or the squares. You’d rather have the real card, of course, but it’s a solid play. Early on, taking the trickster provides great flexibility, at a cost.
The shadow story cards are straight forward. Chapter 1 scores 6 points if you have the most shadow cards. Chapter 2 scores 7 points for the most home cards, Chapter 3 scores 7 points if you hve the most story cards, and Chapter 4 scores 8 for the most stories.
The “Good” factions
Remember that the good factions are all mirrors, so we discuss them as one.
Each faction has one Hero who scores 3 points and is required for the 9 point story card of that faction (“Chapter 4”). As discussed above, that makes a good play, since the story card becomes great … for you. Additionally, heroes hunt. When in doubt, I play the hero card 3rd, particularly in the first draft. That’s because a player holding a shadow closer will typically wait to let other players get into a faction they haven’t started. (Later on, the player may look for a moment when that particular faction is fragile, since waiting may let a spare card make it robust). Dark Angels also tend to appear in the 3rd round, after dropping a few homes. As your group starts to save heroes, shadow cards will tend to move to the 2nd round, so this becomes a “You know I know” situation…
The Homes for each faction are worth 6 points, but close one card of that faction. The obvious combo is to play the location, then play that faction’s opener (1 point character which opens a card of that faction). That earns 7 points in 2 cards, and are ready to play the 7-point story (“Chapter 2”) which requires one of each. That’s a decent (fragile) combination worth 14 in 3 cards. If you don’t get the story card, the 1 character makes your tableau robust. If you just drop down the 6-1 combination in all three suits, you can also go for the 8-point story cards (“Chapter 3,” requires two cards in the other suits). Exceedingly fragile, but you’d average 5.5 points a card with no conditionals outside your control. There are 4 of each home & opener.
Each suit has 4 friends, which provide 3 points each. The next suit up the line also has 4 allies that score 3 points for each friend. So if you get four matching friends and all four allies, you’ll earn a whopping 60 points (in 8 mere cards). If you get a respectable set of 3 and 3, that’s 36 points in 6 cards, still great. If you only manage one friend of a suit, allies are a slightly inferior 3 points. That makes drafting and playing an ally with only one friend slightly risky, but means that any later friend becomes worth 6(+) points. As always, the key is to remember what you’ve seen go by.
The Square cards are worth the number of that card you played (so the total points equal the squares). There are seven of them in each suit. The first card you play is terrible, 1 point. The next card is 3 points, the next is five. So if you get to 3, you are doing OK. The fourth card is 7 points, and now things look start looking good. Still, when you draft squares you’ll need a spare card in the suit. Exactly how valuable these are depend on group think, and whether the players next to you are drafting them.
You can also play your first square as a sacrificial lamb towards that faction’s home. If you get a few more squares, then you worry about opening the card. The *-6 combo isn’t as great as the 6-1 (it doesn’t help for as many stories, and scores a point less) but sometimes it’s what you are dealt. More so than any plan, squares depend on groupthink. If your group doesn’t like them, you’ll get a few big wins. And then you’ll find drafting them harder.
The faction stories — Chapter 1 scores 6 if you have the most cards of that faction. Straightforward, although note that the lead can’t change because of the closer. (Really, the Dark Angel is the only way you suddenly lose the lead …. or a drought of cards to draft). Chapter 2 scores 7 if you have the home + opener combination. Chapter 3 scores 8 for having 2 cards in the other two suits, and Chapter 4 scores 9 with the hero.
No doubt there’s more strategy than what I’ve described, but having a good grasp of the deck and options provide a necessary basis.
Now that I’ve played A Few Acres of Snow 3 times, I’m thinking about British strategy. The French start with more VP, a free regular infantry in the deck (and free regular infantry in general), better rangers (the CdB). The British start with better money (12 to 5, although if you buy a regular infantry, that nullifies the edge) and a significantly leaner deck (7 to 11)
Obviously that last one should be an edge, but I can’t figure out how to take advantage of it. The obvious ploy is to wait until you are about to reshuffle and toss in a few cards that the French can’t react to (raids, military, etc) until they reshuffle. But I’ll be damned if I can figure out what’s best. No doubt if I play the French I’ll learn soon enough.
PS — King of Tokyo is super light, but amusing. Good game for the middle kids (not toddler young, but 7 is fine).
Suppose that two insane billionaires offer you great bets. Billionaire A has a 70% chance of winning (double your bet) and 30% chance of losing (lose your bet). Billionaire B isn’t quite as insane … you have a 2/3rds chance of winning. Being Billionaires, they’ll take whatever stakes you can scrap together.
But A has a catch. It’s a single event. B, on the other hand, is willing to make three tries. Like all Billionaires, they are insanely jealous and suspicious of each other, so if you bet with one, the other won’t deal with you.
The best bet, in terms of expected value, is to wager as much as you can afford to lose on A. But a much better long term strategy is to take that amount, divide it into 3 piles, and place three wagers with B. That’s because your odds of going broke are 30% with A, and a mere 1/27th (under 4%) with B. Of course, your “Ideal” Billionaire would give you some odds (not much, say a 51% of winning) and then take as many bets as you care to place. (Of course, better odds are still better, but you get the point).
The public, by the way, is the ideal billionaire for Las Vegas, State Lotteries, and the like.
But if you generalized the insane billionaires, so that they allowed N bets, you could figure out what the ideal betting strategy would be. You want to grow your bankroll, but the I.B. will go on hot streaks, so you don’t want to bet too much on each bet. But if you bet too little, it takes too many bets (which may take up your time, or risk I.B. getting bored with you and leaving). I believe Poker Theoreticians have solved this problem, assuming you have some Expected Value for your time playing.
Anyway, I was thinking about Acquire, and it occurs to me that you are trying to solve the same basic problem. All the chains will appreciate, but you can only place so many bets at a time. Placing a big bet (3 shares) on company A precludes you from betting big on B. Worse yet, each bet doesn’t resolve instantly, so if your money stays tied up, not only do you have to decide between A and B, you have to worry that either A or B may preclude you from taking bets C, D and E down the road. You’ve run into a liquidity trap — good investments and no money. You lose.
Of course, games aren’t the real world. If I earn a crushing 20% per year safe investment, I don’t lose because someone else squeaked out 22%. But in a game you do. Winner takes all. The net result is that, if your first bet won bigger than everyone elses, you can switch to the slightly lower, but much less swingy return on investment. The worst your early investments failed, the more volatile high-risk/high-reward bets you take later on. If you aren’t winning, betting all of your money hoping for a merger before your next purchase is reasonable.
Of course, in the actual game you probably don’t assign numbers, just a gut feel (“Imperial will fold into American pretty soon and I can take 2nd place, or I could lock up world wide, which will likely be 31+ by the end of the game…”), but the idea holds.
More idly, I was thinking that Acquire had everyone a big winner, but if you assume it represents ~40 years of business (say, 1910 to 1950). You start with $5.5k (I think), and end with ~$50k (if you win), but by the inflation calculator that has a real value of about $20k of starting value, which is a nice steady three and a quarter percent real rate of return!